GD — Society for Dermopharmacy
 |
|
Th.
Förster*, C. Jassoy, D. Petersohn, K. Schlotmann
, M.Kaeten und M. Waldmann-Laue
Antiage-Bioactives in Cosmetic Products
*Schwarzkopf &
Henkel and Corporate Research Henkel, Düsseldorf
Summary (Full
text in German: here)
An ongoing trend relevant for cosmetics is the formation of the population
segment of the so-called "young oldsters". Due to healthier
habits of living and higher incomes humans, especially in the developed
countries, not only become much older but also a more and more active
part of the population. They have more leisure time which they use for
numerous social contacts. Beside thorough body care a good appearance
will become more important in the future. Those active elder people do
no longer accept wrinkles or other visual signs of aging as indicators
of their actual age.
New cosmetic active ingredients can contribute to let a person's skin appear younger by several years than the actual biological age. Schwarzkopf&Henkel treads new paths to find new active ingredients much faster and more efficiently than by conventional methods.
With an artificially cultured (in vitro) full-skin model aging experiments can be performed like e. g. UV irradiations or topical treatments for the protection or caring of the skin. The great advantage is that these skin models contain a horny layer like normal human skin. Therefore, the active ingredients can be applied to the skin under realistic conditions in a cream or a gel formulation. The active ingredients penetrate through the horny layer into the skin where they develop their full activity.
Today it is well-known that the skin aging does not only concern the dermis, and here especially changes in the composition of the matrix proteins responsible for the skin firmness and elasticity. Changes occur also in the epidermis and the basal layer between those two skin compartments. For that reason, efficient antiage products have to show a broad activity spectrum in all relevant skin layers.
After thorough investigation in the full-skin model several antiage active ingredients with different antiage targets have been identified. In controlled use tests the antiage efficacy could be confirmed for finished market products in vivo by quantitative measurement of wrinkle depth distribution as well as subjective assessment. The antiage creams counteract the skin aging and lead to a younger appearance of the skin.